Sunshine in a spoon · first harvest drop coming soon · join the list for 10% off
Market & Trade

Ben Oil Rising: The Compliance Gap Behind a Cosmetics-Led $820 Million Forecast

Moringa seed oil is set to grow from $510 million to $820 million by 2035, driven largely by cosmetics demand. The supply chain behind that growth is far less polished than the marketing.

The global market for ben oil, the historic name for cold-pressed moringa oil pressed from the tree’s seeds, is set to grow from $510 million in 2025 to $820 million by 2035, a 4.9% compound annual growth rate, according to Fact.MR. Cosmetics already account for 43% of that market, ahead of food at 35% and everything else at 22%, per the same forecast. Within Europe, Fact.MR projects the regional market growing from roughly $149 million in 2025 to $240 million by 2035, with Germany holding the largest single-country share at 26.8%, followed by France at 21.5% and the United Kingdom at 18.8%.

That is the polished version of the story: an old African and Indian beauty oil finding its retail moment. The mechanics behind it are messier. Cold-press yields are inconsistent, the oil’s regulatory status splits cleanly down the middle between skin and stomach, and the real check on a shipment has less to do with any single lab result quoted in marketing copy than with which certification stamps sit in the supplier file.

Why Cold-Pressed Oil Costs What It Costs

Moringa seeds run about 36.7% oil by weight, and cold pressing recovers only about 69% of that oil, according to a review of the literature published in the International Journal of Molecular Sciences. Solvent extraction, usually with n-hexane, pulls out almost all of it. Cosmetic-grade producers press cold anyway, because the method leaves the oil unrefined and supports the label claim that goes with it.

That gap is a structural reason cold-pressed moringa oil trades at a premium over solvent-extracted industrial oil, not simply a markup attached to the word “cold-pressed.” A press that leaves roughly three of every ten liters of available oil behind in the seed cake runs a higher cost per liter than a solvent line built to strip the seed clean. That recovery gap is one reason cosmetic-grade oil and bulk industrial oil sit in separate price tiers to begin with.

The same review explains why formulators want the oil in the first place. Its fatty acid profile runs about 73.6% oleic acid, with total monounsaturated fat at 76.7%, saturated fat at 21.2%, and polyunsaturated fat at just 1.2%. A composition that heavy on oleic acid and that light on oxidation-prone polyunsaturated fat gives the oil unusual shelf stability, the trait cosmetic chemists cite when building it into skin and hair care meant to sit on a shelf for a year or longer without turning rancid. The high behenic acid content in the saturated fraction is where the trade name ben oil comes from.

Two Supply Models, One Category

India supplies roughly 80% of the world’s moringa across leaf, seed, and oil, according to CBI, the Dutch government’s export-development agency for suppliers in developing countries. That scale runs through large processors. CBI’s own profile of Grenera Nutrients, one of India’s leading bulk moringa suppliers, describes 300 acres of organic-certified farms in southern India, small farmers contracted to harvest leaves, fruit and seeds, and 20 to 30 tonnes a month of powder, tea, oil and other value-added products. The company holds USDA organic, India Organic and Good Manufacturing Practices certification and ships to European markets including the UK, France, Spain and Germany.

Outside India, the growth is smallholder-driven. Kenya’s vegetable oil exports, the trade category that captures moringa oil, reached 10,123 tonnes worth €44 million in 2022, up 30% in volume and 42% in value against 2018, per CBI’s reading of ITC Trade Map data. South Africa’s equivalent exports hit 3,385 tonnes worth €8.9 million, growing about 28% a year over the same period.

Ghana’s MoringaConnect, the company behind the Minga Foods and True Moringa brands, is the clearest example of that smallholder model in practice. Founded by Kwami Williams and Emily Cunningham, it sources cold-pressed seed oil from a network of more than 5,000 farming families tending over 2 million moringa trees, according to the company. That oil reaches retail shelves and B2B cosmetics buyers. The company says its farmers now earn ten times what they did before, a company figure rather than an audited one, though it illustrates the income pitch used to persuade smallholders to convert acreage to moringa.

The same page claims the oil outperforms argan, jojoba and shea. That is marketing language, not a cited clinical finding, and it belongs in the same category as most oil-versus-oil superiority claims in this market. CBI supplies the pricing context around it: moringa oil runs about €63 per kilogram against roughly €42 for argan and over €52 for marula, with a shelf life of three to five years where argan gets one to two.

Where the Price Actually Lands

Two independent trackers converge on roughly the same band. CBI puts European wholesale moringa oil at €24 to €63 per kilogram, averaging above €40, with organic bulk lots running €20 to €30 per liter, small lots under a tonne exceeding €50 per liter, and 30 to 50 milliliter retail bottles selling above €20. Separately, Tridge’s trade price data puts India’s 2024 export prices for moringa seed oil at $22.74 to $49.93 per kilogram, a range that lines up closely with the CBI band once converted to dollars. Two independently sourced figures landing in the same territory make a stronger signal than either number would on its own.

Legal for Skin, Blocked for the Supplement Aisle

The regulatory picture is where the cosmetics-claims story gets its sharpest edge. In the European Union, moringa leaves, leaf powder and pods are the authorized moringa products, and leaf powder is already common in food supplements. Seed oil is treated differently. CBI’s trade guidance for moringa exporters states flatly that European legislation does not allow the use of moringa seed oil in food supplements. There is a route in principle: CBI’s companion market study notes that moringa extracts and seed oil for supplement use count as novel foods, meaning a company would have to win Novel Food authorization before selling one. Nobody has. The species itself, Moringa oleifera, is not classified as a novel food, though other moringa species are. EFSA raised safety objections to Moringa stenopetala in September 2019 for want of data.

Cosmetic use faces no such barrier. It falls under EU Cosmetics Regulation (EC) 1223/2009, and the oil is exempt from REACH registration as a vegetable oil that has not been chemically modified. In practice, the same oil barred from an EU supplement capsule can go straight into a face cream or hair serum, a split that cosmetics marketing rarely spells out for shoppers who read “moringa” as a wellness signal regardless of which part of the plant is in the bottle.

That gap between what is legal to say and what companies actually say has already drawn scrutiny. A paper by C. Waterman and R.P. Castro, presented at the II International Symposium on Moringa and published through the International Society for Horticultural Science, cautioned against “false and unjustified health claims” by moringa retailers, pointed to Brazil’s ban on the sale of moringa products as a regulatory precedent, and called for labeling that reflects realistic dosages. The paper addresses moringa products broadly rather than seed oil or cosmetics specifically, but it shows researchers and regulators have already flagged a claims problem in this category.

What Buyers Actually Check

Ask a serious European cosmetics buyer what they require before accepting a lot of moringa oil, and the answer has little to do with the language on a finished product’s label. CBI documents the specification buyers hold suppliers to:

  • Oleic acid content between 65% and 80%
  • Peroxide value below 10 meq O2/kg
  • Moisture below 0.1%
  • Clear to pale-yellow color and a light, nutty aroma; a strong aroma reads as rancid
  • A Technical Data Sheet, Certificate of Analysis and Safety Data Sheet with every lot, plus GMO and origin certificates on request

Buyers check pre-shipment samples against those numbers, then check the delivered lot again.

Increasingly, that paperwork also has to carry a certification stamp: COSMOS, NaTrue, Soil Association Organic, BDIH or ICEA on the natural-cosmetics side, EU organic under Regulation 848/2018, ISO 16128 for natural and organic content, and Fairtrade or Ecocert’s Fair for Life on the social side. The supply base for the social certificates is thin. CBI counts 13 Fairtrade-certified moringa suppliers across India, Sri Lanka and Egypt, and only two moringa oil suppliers holding Fair for Life. Good Manufacturing Practices are not mandatory for cosmetic ingredient producers, though CBI treats compliance as a competitive advantage. HACCP is required for suppliers selling food-grade primary-processed moringa oil, and some buyers ask for ISO 22000 or FSSC 22000 on top.

Named importers active in the trade show how entrenched that regime already is. O&3 in the UK sources from Kenya and India and offers cold-pressed, refined and COSMOS-certified organic grades. DKSH in Spain carries NaTrue-certified supply. Unifect in the UK buys organic seed oil directly from Zuplex in South Africa. Henry Lamotte Oils in Germany sells NaTrue-certified moringa oil. Sigma Oil Seeds in the Netherlands sources dried seed from a community partner in Mozambique.

That certification and specification regime, not any single lab result quoted in marketing copy, is what separates a shipment that clears a European cosmetics buyer’s door from one that does not. As the category expands toward that projected $820 million by 2035, the growth story will likely keep outrunning the paperwork behind it, at least for suppliers still building out the compliance file rather than the sales pitch.